From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 2:21 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 3312

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1a. Re: DMC clock reproduction (and other options)
From: James Espey

1b. Re: DMC clock reproduction (and other options)
From: Tell you if you ask.

1c. Re: DMC clock reproduction (and other options)
From: Ryan Wright


2. DCS and American Express
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


3a. Re: DCS judging of cars
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3b. Re: DCS judging of cars
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com


4a. Re: A/C cutting out
From: John Hervey

4b. Re: A/C cutting out
From: James Espey


5a. Re: Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed
From: Nick Kemp

5b. Re: Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed
From: mike clemens


6. Re: Engine cranking
From: John Hervey


7. Re: Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting
From: John Hervey


8a. Re: Is My Idle OK?
From: John Hervey

8b. Re: Is My Idle OK?
From: Todd Nelson

8c. Re: Is My Idle OK?
From: John Hervey

8d. Re: Is My Idle OK?
From: Dave Sontos


9. My New and Improved "DeLorean Enthusia" Site!
From: g2_dmc


10a. Re: Gold Cars
From: D Nieves

10b. Re: HID lights (was Gold Cars)
From: Dave Swingle

10c. Re: Gold Cars
From: Tom Niemczewski

10d. Re: Gold Cars
From: Chris Murley


11. Re: Replica
From: D Nieves


12. Re: DMC back seat was: Getting rid of trailing arm setup
From: ks_at_dml_steinerklaus.de


13. Re: Stainless Frame Features - quality of welds
From: Bryan Pearce


14. DMCH Warranty Policy: was Re: A/C cutting out
From: bkp944



Messages

1a. Re: DMC clock reproduction (and other options)
Posted by: "James Espey" james_at_dml_delorean.com dmchelp
Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:38 pm (PDT)

There's just not a huge demand for this part - not enough to justify
having them made. I think there'd be more demand for a shift plate
without a console clock hole - originals are gone - or something more
useful to fit in the clock hole. Jan van de Wouw did this:

http://members.home.nl/delorean/monitor

a couple of years ago and I think it's the best solution so far to
filling the clock hole. Wish he would've made them for resale! Maybe
bringing it up again will inspire him (or someone else) to look into it.

James
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> This goes out to any of the vendors who could get this moving. With
> all the new parts that keep coming out I dont here many people asking
> about the DMC clock. Maybe I just answered my own questions but I
> would think this would be a relatively easy thing to reproduce. I know
> most of us have clocks on the new radio's we all install but it would
> be nice to have my original clock working. Houston? any chance you
> could put this on your list of possible parts?
>
> Mike C
> 2109
>










Messages in this topic (4)

1b. Re: DMC clock reproduction (and other options)
Posted by: "Tell you if you ask." racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com cruznmd
Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:43 am (PDT)

James,

I talked to Jan about this a year or so ago. I love it. I too, would
buy it if you or he built them.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> There's just not a huge demand for this part - not enough to justify
> having them made. I think there'd be more demand for a shift plate
> without a console clock hole - originals are gone - or something
more
> useful to fit in the clock hole. Jan van de Wouw did this:
>
> http://members.home.nl/delorean/monitor
>
> a couple of years ago and I think it's the best solution so far to
> filling the clock hole. Wish he would've made them for resale! Maybe
> bringing it up again will inspire him (or someone else) to look
into it.
>
> James
> DMC (Texas)
> http://www.delorean.com
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_> wrote:
> >
> > This goes out to any of the vendors who could get this moving.
With
> > all the new parts that keep coming out I dont here many people
asking
> > about the DMC clock. Maybe I just answered my own questions but I
> > would think this would be a relatively easy thing to reproduce. I
know
> > most of us have clocks on the new radio's we all install but it
would
> > be nice to have my original clock working. Houston? any chance
you
> > could put this on your list of possible parts?
> >
> > Mike C
> > 2109
> >
>









Messages in this topic (4)

1c. Re: DMC clock reproduction (and other options)
Posted by: "Ryan Wright" ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com ryanpwright
Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 10:56 am (PDT)

Second that. I like my clock (mine still works fine), but I could
definitely lose it for those indicators. I loved this project when Jan
built it and I love it again now.

-Ryan

On 6/30/06, Tell you if you ask. <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> James,
>
> I talked to Jan about this a year or so ago. I love it. I too, would
> buy it if you or he built them.
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_...> wrote:
> >
> > There's just not a huge demand for this part - not enough to justify
> > having them made. I think there'd be more demand for a shift plate
> > without a console clock hole - originals are gone - or something
> more
> > useful to fit in the clock hole. Jan van de Wouw did this:
> >
> > http://members.home.nl/delorean/monitor
> >
> > a couple of years ago and I think it's the best solution so far to
> > filling the clock hole. Wish he would've made them for resale! Maybe
> > bringing it up again will inspire him (or someone else) to look
> into it.
> >
> > James
> > DMC (Texas)
> > http://www.delorean.com
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_> wrote:
> > >
> > > This goes out to any of the vendors who could get this moving.
> With
> > > all the new parts that keep coming out I dont here many people
> asking
> > > about the DMC clock. Maybe I just answered my own questions but I
> > > would think this would be a relatively easy thing to reproduce. I
> know
> > > most of us have clocks on the new radio's we all install but it
> would
> > > be nice to have my original clock working. Houston? any chance
> you
> > > could put this on your list of possible parts?
> > >
> > > Mike C
> > > 2109
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>




Messages in this topic (4)

2. DCS and American Express
Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:39 pm (PDT)

Due to a glitch I was not aware of leading into DCS 2006 we were not able to
take american express cards. I found out about a week before the show but
did not have time to fix it.

So DCS now accepts AGAIN (sorry) American Express along with Visa and
Mastercard

Working on Discover

Any others I should look at

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (1)

3a. Re: DCS judging of cars
Posted by: "Soma576_at_dml_aol.com" Soma576_at_dml_aol.com soma576
Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:42 pm (PDT)

I guess I'm not really sure what the deal is with judging. It's just like any other car show - people expect to see nice clean well kept cars, so if you plan on having your car judged, you should do whatever you need to do to make it look presentable! Signs of decay and neglect such as sagging headliners, ripped weatherstripping, leaky and dirty engines, unwashed cars, mismatched tires, ripped seats, faded interior parts, bad fascia paint, etc count against you no matter what car show you go to. Unless it is concours judging, accessories are never penalized as long as they are installed in a clean manner and do not look gaudy or in poor taste.

If we have a sheet that itemizes things to be judged on/looked at, surely someone will complain next time when other aspects of the car were criticized even though they weren't on the sheet.

The main idea here is to fix the old worn out parts, make the car look nice, and give a good wash and half-hearted detail and you should at least be competitive. I have always been a subscriber to the Exotic Car Code of Ethics, one of which states that the car will always be reasonably clean and kept in good condition. I'm proud of my car, the heritage, the history, the ethics, etc and I want people to see a top-notch example anytime they see my car. The least it will do is keep perceived value high if people always see your car nice and clean. Not just for your own car but for DeLoreans in general!

My trick is to do a complete interior clean and detail before a show, then if I have a long road trip until I get there, I will wait to wash the car until I am close to the destination, then I will detail it at the event. Always works well for me.

Andy


-----Original Message-----
From: cupsdmc <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:02:00 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: DCS judging of cars


> I understand now on the judging sheets.  Maybe a "What you will be 
> judged on" sheet would be great to have prior to the the show.  
> Could even be uploaded to the DCS website and as a part of the 
> registration.



[long quote trimmed by moderator]





Messages in this topic (14)
________________________________________________________________________

3b. Re: DCS judging of cars
    Posted by: "kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com" kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com kkoncelik
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:54 pm (PDT)

I can post a blank judging sheet that is no problem
 
KEn 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: cupsdmc <cupsdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:02:00 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: DCS judging of cars


I understand now on the judging sheets. Maybe a "What you will be 
judged on" sheet would be great to have prior to the the show. 
Could even be uploaded to the DCS website and as a part of the 
registration.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_... wrote:
>
> I had about 100 cars judged so if everyone wanted their judging 
sheet that means 100 mailings (more work for me) then 200 calls and 
e-mails claiming they should not have taken off for this or they 
should have counted more for that. (again more work for me) 
> I know of no other show that does this other than the concours.
> Its done by ISCA judges who do this a lot. It is still subjective 
but for what we do it usually works out right.
> 
> So enjoy your cars and for those that won great for those that 
did not 
> work harder
> 
> Jeremy you were not the newest owner Mike did not speak up or 
register at the table so we will give him and you the trophy since 
you are both new owners. He had his car three weeks and I sold it to 
him.
> 
> It will be reflected on the awards list
> 
> Ken 
> 

[long quote trimmed by moderator]


 
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (14)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

4a. Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:46 pm (PDT)

[MODERATOR NOTE:  Up to this point the discussion had a bit of technical interest, but now it appears to be repeating the same thoughts over and over.  Feel free to post *new* information about air conditioning, otherwise this thread is closed.   - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]

James, 
It's not a scare tactic; it's called buying NEW VS buying 25 year old parts that have seals that will shrink and dry out due to age. Your right I will never install as many as the clan, but people in the clan really don't like them either. They buy them because the have to. We also offer a 2 year warranty on the compressor and again they are new.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Chris Murley
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 12:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: A/C cutting out

On 6/28/06, James Espey <james_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
>
> Don't believe the hype.
>
> John is insinuating here that buying a NOS compressor is not as good
> as one of his. This "scare tactic" that he's used for the last couple
> years is especially unfounded in this regard. The compressors that we
> sell are sealed box, sealed units that we install on the $40K plus
> remanufactured cars here, as well as installed on restored and service
> cars that come in our shop. These are the same units sold and
> installed by DMC Florida, PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor Center - not to
> mention hundreds of all of their and our mail order customers over the
> years - far more DeLoreans than John Hervey ever has worked on or I
> believe ever will work on.
>
> As Ryan noted, our $195 NOS A/C compressors come with an NOS sealed
> accumulator and new orifice tube.
>
> James Espey
> DMC (Texas)
> http://www.delorean.com




Messages in this topic (21)
________________________________________________________________________

4b. Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "James Espey" james_at_dml_delorean.com dmchelp
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:18 am (PDT)

Then why were they fine a couple years ago when you could buy them
from us? Now that you can't, you sing a different tune. No one buys
parts from us because they have to, they buy parts from us because
they can. 

New info about the air conditioning? Free Ground Shipping for retail
customers on Compressors/Accumulator/Orifice Tube kits for orders
placed through July 31st - Happy Independence Day, everyone! Woo hoo!
Call or email me direct for this special deal!

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> [MODERATOR NOTE:  Up to this point the discussion had a bit of
technical interest, but now it appears to be repeating the same
thoughts over and over.  Feel free to post *new* information about air
conditioning, otherwise this thread is closed.   - Mike Substelny, DML
moderator of the week]
> 
(SNIP)
>
> > As Ryan noted, our $195 NOS A/C compressors come with an NOS sealed
> > accumulator and new orifice tube.
> >
> > James Espey
> > DMC (Texas)
> > http://www.delorean.com
>








Messages in this topic (21)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

5a. Re: Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed
    Posted by: "Nick Kemp" nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net nk1165
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:47 pm (PDT)

What I'm hoping to do is repair the bad wire without removing the rack
completely or removing the steering wheel.  If I can repair it without
pulling through the bushing I'd be delighted.  Thus I was hoping that there
may be a photo or drawing to get a hint of what it looks like.  If it gets
too tight I may be doing by mirror.

The power wire to the switch is soldered to a point is not a connector...
correct?

Thanks for the warning about disassembly.

Nick
  -----Original Message-----
  From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
mike clemens
  Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 2:44 PM
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [DML] Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed


  Nick,

  There are two wires that go into the horn stalk, one
  is purple (the hot lead) and the other is purple/black
  which carries the voltage out to the horns when you
  push the stalk. If one of yours is broken, then you
  will have to remove the steering wheel and remove the
  "combination switch". Once you have the "combination
  switch" off, you can remove the turn signal, dip, and
  horn switch portion and go in and try to repair the
  wire.

  A word of CAUTION---------when you remove the two
  small hex screws that are holding the turn signal,
  dip, and horn switch to the metal plate, BE VERY,
  VERY, CAREFUL------there are several ball bearings
  underneath the metal plate that are spring loaded and
  they will fly out into the 'nether world' if jolted or
  even bumped, never to be found in your lifetime.

  Now, to answer your other question, yes, you can
  install a push button (similar to a door bell button)
  and make the horns work. When you push on the stalk
  to blow the horns, all you are doing is connecting the
  purple wire to the purple/black wire. All you need to
  do is connect those two wires to a button somewhere
  convenient and you'll be in business.

  Lastly, if you want to check to make sure the horns
  are working before you start tearing everything apart,
  just disconnect the connector that comes down from the
  switch and using a small jumper, connect the purple
  and purple/black utilizing the side with the female
  pins. Your horns should work as soon as you touch the
  two points together.

  Let me know if this helps or if I can be of any help.
  I've got my switch sitting here by the computer.

  Mike TPS 1630




Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________

5b. Re: Picture/Dwg of dash side of horn switch cluster needed
    Posted by: "mike clemens" rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com rmclemns
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:18 am (PDT)

Nick,

You are correct in assuming the wires do not have
connectors on them, but after going into the back of
the combo switch, they continue all the way up the
stalk and are fastened to two copper connectors that
pertrude from the end of the stalk.  The only way to
repair it is to remove the stalk from the combo switch
and to do that you have to dismantle everything.  

Your wire probably broke at the bottom of the stalk
and even with a micro soldering iron, there is no room
to work from the backside of the switch.  If you want
your original stalk to work, then you'll have to just
bite the bullet and remove the steering wheel, then
the combo switch, and then dismantle the turn, dip and
horn switch.

I've done about 10 of these and there is no easy
solution.  Again, be very careful of the spring loaded
parts if you attempt this repair.  They will fly out
at the least little bump.

Mike 


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

6. Re: Engine cranking
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:57 pm (PDT)

Sean, What Rob said was correct, but you may have gone a little too lean or
counter clock. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks and go clock with the 3mm
wrench in very small steps.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
seanhagan
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:36 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine cranking

I posted here a few weeks ago about trying to get my car started 
after replacing the entire fuel system (all except the gas tank) I 
have found that the correct position for the inertia switch plunger 
is down. :-)... So i got the car up and running with a terrible 
idle... ranging from just over 600 to about 1200 swinging up and 
down. 

Recieved a post from Rob, and he stated that I may need to adjust my 
air intake adjuster knob/3mm allen wrench adjustable bolt under what 
appears to be a bottle brush handle between the distributor and the 
air filter setup. 

So my point is that I did have the car running. I tried to start her 
up tonight (it ran saturday), and it started up for a second, then 
died. It will no longer restart at this point in time. It just seems 
to crank non-stop without the incling of a turnover (which would be 
nice to hear).

I did validate that the pump is pumping gas, and you can hear it and 
the frequency valve when you just turn the key without taking it to 
the start position. 

Any thoughts?





Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

7. Re: Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 7:00 pm (PDT)

Ed, Check my web site on what I say about boosters.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Ed B.
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:33 PM
To: DMC_News
Subject: [DML] Brake booster/Servo troubleshooting

A few question about the brake booster/servo:

My braking is the pits: I can slam the brakes on, hold with all my force 
and I will not lock the wheels up.  The car does stop, but it's nowhere 
near what it should be in terms of rate of deceleration.  This is at 
around 15mph in my driveway.  At higher speeds, I do slow down, but 
again, it seems really poor and I have to apply a LOT of pressure to get 
decent braking.  I'd be screwed if I had to do a panic stop at speed.  
All brake components are good/new: master cylinder, calipers, rotors, 
pads, fluid, all is properly bled, no air in the M.C.  I know the 
DeLorean brakes are not the greatest, but this is terrible. 

Would a bad servo cause weak braking?  I removed the vacuum hose from 
the servo and there is nice suction from it when the engine is running.  
I also did a crude test of the check valve by connecting separate, short 
hose to the check valve inlet and I cannot blow through, but I can draw 
(albeit with difficulty and not freely), indicating the check valve is 
functioning, right?  I do hear a faint hissing around the servo, but it 
doesn't sound like a leak - more like the vacuum noise inside the hose.  
What else can i check?

How do I check if the actual servo/booster itself is good?  The manual 
does not seem to be much help here -  it doesn't even show where the 
other end of the vacuum line goes in the engine bay...

Thanks...
- ed

-- 

1982 DMC-12 [11594]
1986.5 928S
1990 Coupe Quattro 20V




Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

8a. Re: Is My Idle OK?
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Thu Jun 29, 2006 7:11 pm (PDT)

Todd, See below:

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Todd Nelson
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:49 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Is My Idle OK?

List:

The idle on my car seems to be a little rough, this could be due to it using
a very old mechanical fuel injection system or it could be something else.

Todd, Have the injectors been cleaned or checked to see if they are all
matched in pressure and bleed down.

 As this is the only DeLorean I've ever seen, much less driven, I'm not sure
what I should expect from the car as far as idle quality, and startup ease
is concerned.  

Todd, I have had cars in the shop that Idle as smooth as any car should.

When started, which can sometimes take a little help from the throttle
pedal, the idle will fluctuate slightly, according to the in car tachometer
it doesn't appear to be too bad, maybe 50 RPM's.  However a short time later
the idle will sag maybe 150 RPM then pick itself up again, it will continue
in this cycle until I begin to drive it, at which time it may reappear.

Todd, I would consider replacing the 02 sensor and re adjust the mixture
screw.

  Upon inspection of the engine when idling I will notice that it does seem
to shake a little more than I would consider normal.  When sitting at a stop
light you can really feel the car rumble, I kind of like it, but if it's not
normal then I should do something about it.  When I bought the car I noticed
that the cap to the mixture screw was gone, assuming the mixture was set
incorrectly I used the dwell meter approach connected to the diagnostic plug
to watch the readings while the car was at running temp.  Needless to say it
was off, not swinging between 45 degrees.  However I am unable to get it to
a steady swing, sometimes swinging between 45 and 50, sometimes 35 and 40,
sometimes 40 and 50, I will notice this with the screw in the same place.
The mixture screw hole is plugged during these readings, it just seems more
erratic than it should.  This leads me to think there is a vacuum leak of
some kind in the system.  Although this seems unlikely since I have replaced
all of the engine vacuum hoses, intake O-rings, "air horn" paper and rubber
O-rings, cold start valve and tube O-rings, fuel distributor to mixture unit
O-ring and the paper gasket between the two halves of the mixture unit.


Vacuum leaks normally are a steady problem as the vacuum is leaking.


I have used the propane method for finding leaks, but it has proved
unsuccessful.  What seems odd is as a test I removed the air cleaner while
the engine was idling and "squirted" some propane directly in the intake to
see/hear the results, but surprisingly nothing happened, this didn't seem
right to me.  I thought it could be the constant idle speed system
regulating the idle, but this seems unlikely as I wouldn't suspect it to
function that quickly.  At any rate I disabled the system by unplugging the
ISM and manually idling the car by using the "brass screws".  I experienced
the same results.  The only other running problem I've noticed is when
manually working the throttle spool I can just barely hear a quiet pop like
a small backfire, just when holding at a constant high RPM.  When driving
the car it's completely unnoticeable.  Other than that the car runs fine,
acceleration seems good and power seems to be normal.  Then again, I've
never driven another DeLorean.  Any thoughts?

Little pop's in the intake are normally a sign of running to lean and a WUR
needs to be replaced.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


Thanks,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732





Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________

8b. Re: Is My Idle OK?
    Posted by: "Todd Nelson" tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu todddmc12
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:18 am (PDT)

Thanks John,

I just recently replaced the O2 sensor, it's actually one of yours :-)  I 
bought it quite some time ago and finally got around to installing it.  I 
will take your advice and monitor the fuel spray from the injectors. 
Setting the fuel/air ratio is what I have been trying to do with little 
success.  What seems to be most troubling is I can never get the reading 
from the dwell meter to be steady.  It will usually hop somewhere between 35 
and 50, sometimes in long swings sometimes in short swings say between 45 
and 50.  Is this normal?   Keep in mind this is all during one reading after 
one setting change.  Do I just need to find that "sweet spot" for it to 
smooth out?

In regards to a possible faulty WUR/CPR, is this something that can be 
diagnosed with a K-Jet pressure testing tool?  Being in a "non-DeLorean" 
area means there are no other owners I can persuade into letting me try 
their parts for an hour or two.

I think I'm about 90% there with this car...

Thanks again,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Is My Idle OK?


> Todd, See below:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf 
> Of
> Todd Nelson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:49 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Is My Idle OK?
>
> List:
>
> The idle on my car seems to be a little rough, this could be due to it 
> using
> a very old mechanical fuel injection system or it could be something else.
>
> Todd, Have the injectors been cleaned or checked to see if they are all
> matched in pressure and bleed down.
>
> As this is the only DeLorean I've ever seen, much less driven, I'm not 
> sure
> what I should expect from the car as far as idle quality, and startup ease
> is concerned.
>
> Todd, I have had cars in the shop that Idle as smooth as any car should.
>
> When started, which can sometimes take a little help from the throttle
> pedal, the idle will fluctuate slightly, according to the in car 
> tachometer
> it doesn't appear to be too bad, maybe 50 RPM's.  However a short time 
> later
> the idle will sag maybe 150 RPM then pick itself up again, it will 
> continue
> in this cycle until I begin to drive it, at which time it may reappear.
>
> Todd, I would consider replacing the 02 sensor and re adjust the mixture
> screw.
>
>  Upon inspection of the engine when idling I will notice that it does seem
> to shake a little more than I would consider normal.  When sitting at a 
> stop
> light you can really feel the car rumble, I kind of like it, but if it's 
> not
> normal then I should do something about it.  When I bought the car I 
> noticed
> that the cap to the mixture screw was gone, assuming the mixture was set
> incorrectly I used the dwell meter approach connected to the diagnostic 
> plug
> to watch the readings while the car was at running temp.  Needless to say 
> it
> was off, not swinging between 45 degrees.  However I am unable to get it 
> to
> a steady swing, sometimes swinging between 45 and 50, sometimes 35 and 40,
> sometimes 40 and 50, I will notice this with the screw in the same place.
> The mixture screw hole is plugged during these readings, it just seems 
> more
> erratic than it should.  This leads me to think there is a vacuum leak of
> some kind in the system.  Although this seems unlikely since I have 
> replaced
> all of the engine vacuum hoses, intake O-rings, "air horn" paper and 
> rubber
> O-rings, cold start valve and tube O-rings, fuel distributor to mixture 
> unit
> O-ring and the paper gasket between the two halves of the mixture unit.
>
>
> Vacuum leaks normally are a steady problem as the vacuum is leaking.
>
>
> I have used the propane method for finding leaks, but it has proved
> unsuccessful.  What seems odd is as a test I removed the air cleaner while
> the engine was idling and "squirted" some propane directly in the intake 
> to
> see/hear the results, but surprisingly nothing happened, this didn't seem
> right to me.  I thought it could be the constant idle speed system
> regulating the idle, but this seems unlikely as I wouldn't suspect it to
> function that quickly.  At any rate I disabled the system by unplugging 
> the
> ISM and manually idling the car by using the "brass screws".  I 
> experienced
> the same results.  The only other running problem I've noticed is when
> manually working the throttle spool I can just barely hear a quiet pop 
> like
> a small backfire, just when holding at a constant high RPM.  When driving
> the car it's completely unnoticeable.  Other than that the car runs fine,
> acceleration seems good and power seems to be normal.  Then again, I've
> never driven another DeLorean.  Any thoughts?
>
> Little pop's in the intake are normally a sign of running to lean and a 
> WUR
> needs to be replaced.
>
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com





Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________

8c. Re: Is My Idle OK?
    Posted by: "John Hervey" john_at_dml_specialtauto.com johnatspecialt
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:35 am (PDT)

Todd, 
Try doing this by ear as you say find the sweet spot. Get the car hot and
unplug the 02 sensor. Adjust the fuel mixture screw till you get the car to
run as smooth as possible and then plug the 02 back end. This should have
you really close to the sweet spot of idle. Be sure the three brass screws
are all screwed down.
As far as the WUR and the K Jet testing tool for fuel pressure. Follow the
instructions in the technical manual. That's the best. 
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

    

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Todd Nelson
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 8:43 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Is My Idle OK?

Thanks John,

I just recently replaced the O2 sensor, it's actually one of yours :-)  I 
bought it quite some time ago and finally got around to installing it.  I 
will take your advice and monitor the fuel spray from the injectors. 
Setting the fuel/air ratio is what I have been trying to do with little 
success.  What seems to be most troubling is I can never get the reading 
from the dwell meter to be steady.  It will usually hop somewhere between 35

and 50, sometimes in long swings sometimes in short swings say between 45 
and 50.  Is this normal?   Keep in mind this is all during one reading after

one setting change.  Do I just need to find that "sweet spot" for it to 
smooth out?

In regards to a possible faulty WUR/CPR, is this something that can be 
diagnosed with a K-Jet pressure testing tool?  Being in a "non-DeLorean" 
area means there are no other owners I can persuade into letting me try 
their parts for an hour or two.

I think I'm about 90% there with this car...

Thanks again,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Is My Idle OK?


> Todd, See below:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf 
> Of
> Todd Nelson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:49 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Is My Idle OK?
>
> List:
>
> The idle on my car seems to be a little rough, this could be due to it 
> using
> a very old mechanical fuel injection system or it could be something else.
>
> Todd, Have the injectors been cleaned or checked to see if they are all
> matched in pressure and bleed down.
>
> As this is the only DeLorean I've ever seen, much less driven, I'm not 
> sure
> what I should expect from the car as far as idle quality, and startup ease
> is concerned.
>
> Todd, I have had cars in the shop that Idle as smooth as any car should.
>
> When started, which can sometimes take a little help from the throttle
> pedal, the idle will fluctuate slightly, according to the in car 
> tachometer
> it doesn't appear to be too bad, maybe 50 RPM's.  However a short time 
> later
> the idle will sag maybe 150 RPM then pick itself up again, it will 
> continue
> in this cycle until I begin to drive it, at which time it may reappear.
>
> Todd, I would consider replacing the 02 sensor and re adjust the mixture
> screw.
>
>  Upon inspection of the engine when idling I will notice that it does seem
> to shake a little more than I would consider normal.  When sitting at a 
> stop
> light you can really feel the car rumble, I kind of like it, but if it's 
> not
> normal then I should do something about it.  When I bought the car I 
> noticed
> that the cap to the mixture screw was gone, assuming the mixture was set
> incorrectly I used the dwell meter approach connected to the diagnostic 
> plug
> to watch the readings while the car was at running temp.  Needless to say 
> it
> was off, not swinging between 45 degrees.  However I am unable to get it 
> to
> a steady swing, sometimes swinging between 45 and 50, sometimes 35 and 40,
> sometimes 40 and 50, I will notice this with the screw in the same place.
> The mixture screw hole is plugged during these readings, it just seems 
> more
> erratic than it should.  This leads me to think there is a vacuum leak of
> some kind in the system.  Although this seems unlikely since I have 
> replaced
> all of the engine vacuum hoses, intake O-rings, "air horn" paper and 
> rubber
> O-rings, cold start valve and tube O-rings, fuel distributor to mixture 
> unit
> O-ring and the paper gasket between the two halves of the mixture unit.
>
>
> Vacuum leaks normally are a steady problem as the vacuum is leaking.
>
>
> I have used the propane method for finding leaks, but it has proved
> unsuccessful.  What seems odd is as a test I removed the air cleaner while
> the engine was idling and "squirted" some propane directly in the intake 
> to
> see/hear the results, but surprisingly nothing happened, this didn't seem
> right to me.  I thought it could be the constant idle speed system
> regulating the idle, but this seems unlikely as I wouldn't suspect it to
> function that quickly.  At any rate I disabled the system by unplugging 
> the
> ISM and manually idling the car by using the "brass screws".  I 
> experienced
> the same results.  The only other running problem I've noticed is when
> manually working the throttle spool I can just barely hear a quiet pop 
> like
> a small backfire, just when holding at a constant high RPM.  When driving
> the car it's completely unnoticeable.  Other than that the car runs fine,
> acceleration seems good and power seems to be normal.  Then again, I've
> never driven another DeLorean.  Any thoughts?
>
> Little pop's in the intake are normally a sign of running to lean and a 
> WUR
> needs to be replaced.
>
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com





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Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________

8d. Re: Is My Idle OK?
    Posted by: "Dave Sontos" dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net dsontos
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 8:26 am (PDT)

Todd,
It is normal for the dwell to swing like that. That means your computer is
working and receiving a signal from the O2 sensor. Mine will swing about
10-15 degrees. Make sure the car is warmed up (fans cycle on/off), set the
dwell and then replug the hole and watch the dwell. Your goal is a average
reading of 40-45 degrees. I'm trying to remember but I think a higher dwell
reading will result in a leaner mixture and then result in harder starting
but better performance off the line. A lower dwell reading will be richer
and thus starting will be easier but some off line performance may be
sacrificed.
 
You will need a K-Jetronic fuel pressure test guage set to properly
determine any fuel problems. I bought mine at NAPA for around $85. I see JC
Whitney also has them. I believe John also will sell you a set. A good
investment if you are planning on keeping the car and doing your own
maintenance. Another thing is buy a book on Bosch fuel injection systems.
One quick check you can do on the CPR is remove both hoses on top and look
down inside the holes. One hole will have a screen or filter in it. Take a
shop air hose and apply air to the opposite hole to blow out any dirt in the
filter/screen. Reassemble, test for leaks, and take a test drive.
 
Dave Sontos
vin 02573  Virginia

  _____  

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Todd Nelson
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 10:43 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Is My Idle OK?



Thanks John,

I just recently replaced the O2 sensor, it's actually one of yours :-) I 
bought it quite some time ago and finally got around to installing it. I 
will take your advice and monitor the fuel spray from the injectors. 
Setting the fuel/air ratio is what I have been trying to do with little 
success. What seems to be most troubling is I can never get the reading 
from the dwell meter to be steady. It will usually hop somewhere between 35 




Messages in this topic (5)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

9. My New and Improved "DeLorean Enthusia" Site!
    Posted by: "g2_dmc" g2_dmc_at_dml_verizon.net g2_dmc
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:21 am (PDT)

Hey everyone! I just finished work on my latest web design project. I
totally remodeled my "DeLorean Enthusia" site. Check it out, and let me
know what you think. I also have all the pictures I took at DCS 06 up
too...Let me know what needs work too. I know there are probably some
kinks in there somewhere :-)

Thanks!
Matt Aebersold

http://www.mattaebersold.com/de.htm
<http://www.mattaebersold.com/de.htm>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (1)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

10a. Re: Gold Cars
    Posted by: "D Nieves" d_nieves_at_dml_hotmail.com 
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:26 am (PDT)

How much gold would be needed to plate a single DeLorean?  Since it's
atomized and the layer of gold is so thin I would think a few ounces(?).  If
someone where crazy enough to drive it, what kind of wax would they use to
protect the finish (from rubbing off)?  Couldn't they have made a gold fleck
paint on the nose/tail to match the gold plating?  I'm so used to the grey
and black DeLorean interior the brown/tan interior on the gold plated cars
and the prototypes look a little bit weird.  

Here's an interesting project (may have been done already) build a kit to
retrofit HIDs onto a DeLorean.

DNieves
1986 RX7
2006 Civic Si

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Marc Levy
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 8:47 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Gold Cars

All 3 sets of panels for the gold cars were made at
the same time!  Why would one be better quality than
another?

Interesting story, but the DOC had the guy who made
the gold cars speak to us at dinner.  Apparently, they
were tight on time and one of the doors was not masked
before they plated it...  and that door has gold
plating INSIDE as well.


--- cbl1739 <cbl302_at_dml_sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> it is just not worth it. On 20105 I am not sure of
> the quality of the 
> gold plating,but assume it was done to a better
> degree than the 
> orignal two factory cars,even tho they used the
> "spare panels" to 
> make that car.
> CBL
>





Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________

10b. Re: HID lights (was Gold Cars)
    Posted by: "Dave Swingle" swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com daveswingle2
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:06 am (PDT)

Yep - expensive. . . Developed by Peter Kuchan, sold by Toby:

http://www.delorean-parts.com/

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "D Nieves" <d_nieves_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> -----> 
> Here's an interesting project (may have been done already) build a 
kit to
> retrofit HIDs onto a DeLorean.
> 
> DNieves
> 1986 RX7
> 2006 Civic Si
> 









Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________

10c. Re: Gold Cars
    Posted by: "Tom Niemczewski" tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl Tomciodmc
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:06 am (PDT)

Hi

I've seen a website but can't remember who it was that does the conversion. 
It is pretty expensive and they do not stock them. The conversion is done 
when you order a set. Unfortunately there were no pictures of the setup.
Anyway, I did convert my motorcycle to HID light. The reason for that was 
that I brought the bike with me from the US and had to change the headlight 
to the European standard light distribution. I figured that if I have to do 
it why not do it with some style ;) I installed a lens and reflector setup 
from a BMW car and the result is amazing. I want HIDs on all my  vehicles 
now :) And so I went and bought a set of lenses from an Audi. The bike was 
first as a test/prototype and the results are so good that the D is next. I 
have E coded lights on it, but I will be changing that to HID. I will post 
pictures once the conversion is done. But first I need to take care of my 
frame... I guess I will not be getting one from Chicago.
If anyone is interested I can do a conversion to HID lights for the 
DeLorean. I can send some pictures of my motorcycle conversion if anyone 
wants to see my work and the end result :)
I'm using bi-xenon setup which means it has the full functionality of low 
and high beams from a single HID bulb. They are 100% street legal.

Tom Niemczewski
vin 6149 (in Poland!)
Google earth: 5225'17.30"N 21 1'58.00"E
tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl
www.deloreana.com



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "D Nieves"
> Here's an interesting project (may have been done already) build a kit to
> retrofit HIDs onto a DeLorean.
>
> DNieves
> 1986 RX7
> 2006 Civic Si





Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________

10d. Re: Gold Cars
    Posted by: "Chris Murley" qumefox_at_dml_gmail.com qumefox76
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 12:20 pm (PDT)

On 6/30/06, D Nieves <d_nieves_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> How much gold would be needed to plate a single DeLorean?  Since it's
> atomized and the layer of gold is so thin I would think a few
> ounces(?).  If
> someone where crazy enough to drive it, what kind of wax would they use to
> protect the finish (from rubbing off)?  Couldn't they have made a gold
> fleck
> paint on the nose/tail to match the gold plating?  I'm so used to the grey
> and black DeLorean interior the brown/tan interior on the gold plated cars
> and the prototypes look a little bit weird.
>
> Here's an interesting project (may have been done already) build a kit to
> retrofit HIDs onto a DeLorean.
>
> DNieves
> 1986 RX7
> 2006 Civic Si


Platings like that are typically really thin, so not alot. About all that
could be done to keep it from wearing off eventually is to clearcoat it with
something, and i'm not sure there is really anything that would stick well
to the plating. Maybe some of the clear powercoats.

As far as the HID conversion, it's allready been done, and is available.
http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K3001DP&Category_Code=9450

I'll probably put one in my own D whenever I progress far enough to need
headlights..

Chris
VIN #3209
http://badger.brazi.net/index.pl/delorean


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

11. Re: Replica
    Posted by: "D Nieves" d_nieves_at_dml_hotmail.com 
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:28 am (PDT)

Wouldn't the darker door be indicative of extra gold plating?  Therefore if
should fare better than the rest of the car?  Speaking of plating, I found a
picture of a DeLorean that was so buffed and polished it looked chrome
plated (Deloreans -amazing cars!).

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
conundrum1984
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 9:59 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Replica

20105's panels were plated at the same time as the first two cars.  
they were actually a spare set of panels for the first two incase 
something happened to them.  Well, nothing happened because 4300 and 
4301 were never driven.  Except for the passenger side door, they 
did not have that one in gold when building 20105.  So they plated 
another door and the gold plating on this one is actually darker.  I 
don't know how the gold on that door would hold up compared to the 
rest of the panels.  But looking at it you can definately tell it is 
different.  Also, if I remember correctly, I believe 20105 actually 
has the rough pontoon surface of the early cars.  But don't hold me 
on that.

Matt
VIN: 2953

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cbl1739" <cbl302_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> THE major problem with Gold plating a Delorean,is rock chips,and 
the 
> sand blasting effect at speed,from dust and debris,and from what I 
> was told the two orignal gold plated Deloreans were done in a 
simular 
> fashion as a cheap gold watch,meaning that even rubbing against a 
> gold plated delorean,can cause possible $$$$ imperfections,that is 
> the reason no one was allowed near/or to touch the orignal Gold 
> plated Deloreans,and special gloves,and overcoats had to be 
worn,when 
> in contact with one of the gold plated cars,in a nutshell unless 
you 
> are related to Bill Gates,and can afford to replate,every so 
> often,when the plating starts wearing off,(and it will,if 
driven/used)
> it is just not worth it. On 20105 I am not sure of the quality of 
the 
> gold plating,but assume it was done to a better degree than the 
> orignal two factory cars,even tho they used the "spare panels" to 
> make that car.
> CBL





Messages in this topic (15)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

12. Re: DMC back seat was: Getting rid of trailing arm setup
    Posted by: "ks_at_dml_steinerklaus.de" ks_at_dml_steinerklaus.de dmc5980
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:32 am (PDT)

This was Ed Udings DeLorean from the Netherlands. In 2001 he installad a child seat. 
Picture is here: 

http://www.steinerklaus.de/dmc/ef2001/Seiten/0385.htm

Klaus Steiner
#05980
Germany



In a message dated 6/28/2006 1:53 P.M. 
deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com writes:

...I saw a child in the "back seat" who rode from Germany to the prior Eurofest. Ok, only halfway in the back. The parents somehow installed a child seat between the bucket seats, more or less further back than theirs. Don't know if they had to modify the parcel shelf to do it.





Messages in this topic (3)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

13. Re: Stainless Frame Features - quality of welds
    Posted by: "Bryan Pearce" bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com pdc_permaframe
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:33 am (PDT)

In reply to Tom's posting:

On Jun 28, 2006, at 5:27 PM, Tom Niemczewski wrote:

> I feel that this is a very important topic and in my opinion it  
> should be
> discussed in public so everyone knows about possible problems. If  
> like you
> say the problems were taken care of why do you feel it is  
> inappropriate to
> talk about it on the DML?

To be honest, the only reason I suggested a private dialog with you  
was that you seem to be the only person concerned about the frames  
ability to function as they should.

> <snip>
> I'm glad to hear that the problem of poor welding was resolved to  
> the point
> where experts actually praise the quality. Do you have any pictures of
> current frames? I would like to see a close up view of some welds.  
> I would
> like to see a close up of the TAB area. This is where the most  
> important
> joints are for rear suspension as well as the area where the frame  
> splits
> into two around the engine. I have a picture of that area from  
> Memphis and
> would like to be able to see the improvement. Please upload a  
> picture to the
> groups photo section.

If I took the time to create a section on the PDC web site with close  
up photos of some of the welds, would that help your comfort level  
with the quality of the welds?  It's interesting that you would  
mention the critical area where the frame splits apart around the  
engine compartment.  On the original frame, the rear section is butt  
welded to the center box section and the mounting bracket for the  
trailing arm bolts bridges the two sections and provides added  
strength.  On our frame, the center section and the rear sections  
overlap.  Not only is the exterior (visible) seam welded, but the  
interior (invisible) overlap is seam welded as well.  That's at least  
twice as much holding the box section to the rear section of the  
frame.  So for a failure to occur, over 50% of the welds in that  
section alone would have to fail.  In several places on the frame,  
the weld you see is not the only weld holding a particular joint.

> Also, would you happen to have anything stating that
> the critical welds were tested or checked for completeness and  
> strength?
> X-ray, cut apart, load tested?

No destructive testing of the frame has been performed.  If you would  
like to invest in a frame and have these tests performed, for the  
good of the DeLorean community, I would be all for it.  Knowing  
intimately how our frames are put together compared to the stock  
frame, I see this as a non-issue.

> <snip>
> A part that supports the entire car and suspension
> components. The frame experiences great forces and it needs to be  
> as strong
> as possible. A frame that has welds that are so uneven... with  
> holes cannot
> be rated as perfectly safe product.

A couple of comments about this.  Related to supporting the car,  
don't discount the role played by the fiberglass underbody.  It is  
very strong.  If you think back to Proto 1, the frame is split with  
only the underbody supporting the car.  Also, think about the fact  
that when you lift the car at it's jacking points, the entire frame,  
engine, trans, and the rest is being supported by the fiberglass.

> <snip>
> The frame might be fine for 20 years of normal driving
> but what if someone hits a large rock at highway speeds and the  
> welds on the
> shock tower give way?

Over the last 130,000 miles, I have hit two large objects with my  
car.  One of them seriously distorted the wheel and cracked the stock  
front lower control arm.  NO FRAME DAMAGE.  The second was a semi  
that had a wheel break up right in front of me.  These hits took out  
my front screen, spoiler, radiator, and radiator brackets.  NO FRAME  
DAMAGE.  I have purposely driven my car through Chicago construction  
zones trying to exert as much force on the frame as possible.  NO  
PROBLEMS.

> I wish that something like that never happens but you
> have to think about things like that when building and selling a  
> frame.

Do you honestly believe that this is something that was not  
considered early on with the conception of this product?  Do you also  
honestly believe that I would ever want to put some ones safety in  
jeopardy?  We didn't walk out to the shop one day and start slapping  
pieces of Stainless Steel together and decide to put the creation  
under a car.  This process took years of development and planning.

Take a good look at the stock frame, including the welds, under your  
DeLorean.  The PDC Stainless Frame exceeds the stock frames ability  
to support the DeLorean, pretty welds or not.

If anyone else is interested in a section on the web site with close  
up views of the frame welds, please e-mail me privately.

-- 
===============================================
Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components
2N629 Jefferson St.
West Chicago, IL  60185
Phone:   (630) 293-0945
Fax:     (630) 293-0944

DeLorean Part Fabrication
===============================================






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Messages in this topic (4)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

14. DMCH Warranty Policy:  was Re: A/C cutting out
    Posted by: "bkp944" bkp944_at_dml_comcast.net bkp944
    Date: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:38 am (PDT)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James Espey" <james_at_dml_...> wrote:
>
> If there was a pattern of them failing as you
> suggest, we certainly wouldn't be exposing ourselves to the warranty
> claims. 

James, 

Exactly what is the warranty policy of DMCH? Not only for A/C 
compressors, but everything you sell? I could not find anything 
about that on your website.

I was under the impression that if DMCH did not install the part, 
there was no warranty. Is this correct?

-Brian
VIN# 4494







Messages in this topic (21)
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